Blog — Sojourner Williams Yoga

Zanzibar Spice Tour by Eco and Culture Tours

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Memory, all alone in the moonlight, I can smile at the old days I was beautiful then. I remember the time I knew what happiness was let the memory live again. "- Musical "Cats" (sorry, was a theatre major, it won't happen again- at least not for a while)

Sharp green blades of grass prick your ankles. You're not quite certain how you came to be on the side of a small mountain. It is so green, the greenest green. Crayola hasn't even begun to capture green the way you see it. Standing amongst the hundreds of acres of wide open countryside you feel small and ethereal.

SONY DSCIf waking up in charming historic Stone Town is a shock, finding yourself rambling meditatively through miles of some of the richest spice plantations the world has to offer, is astonishing.

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This was where I found myself, three years ago, when a group of friends and I embarked on a Spice Tour in Zanzibar led by Eco and Culture Tours.

There are many spice tours in Zanzibar. Few of those tours rival the experience of Eco and Culture.

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We were whisked away in an immaculate white van for an hours ride out of the city of Stone Town into what seemed the heart of the earth. The reddest roads, the greenest trees, the smell of fresh rain in the air revealed themselves in layers as our van plop, plop, plopped over potholes and rivets.

SONY DSCIn a large open field we gathered. Our small tour was led through a cacophony of colors and textures. Cinnamon, black pepper, jasmine and cardamom scented the air. We rambled through forests and villages. SONY DSCWe met smiling short haired children. We saw the most beguiling brown eyes, watched amazed as butterflies landed on our hands, SONY DSC sampled tropical passion fruit, jackfruit, star fruit, and the fabled durian- have you ever tasted a gym sock?

Between stops beneath large shade trees, we learned of the many medicinal, culinary and traditional uses of the spices grown and harvested in the great green fields. We learned of Arab traders and African healers, of European exploration and the infusion of spices from India.

Three hours later, looking out over the distant hills and green spaces, a meal was prepared for us by local village woman. Shoes off, seated on colorful patterned blankets we filled ourselves with savory spiced beans, vegetables and squash until our fingers were tinged yellow with tumeric. SONY DSC

After lunch, a makeshift market was set up so we could purchase (very reasonably priced) spices, essential oils, and fruit. And before we could so much as look back, we were off. Downhill, our van sputtered, over red red roads, past green green vines, towards the narrow ancient charm of Stone Town. SONY DSC

As mosques signaled the call to evening prayer, we stepped from the van, havaianas meeting cobblestone, stars still in our eyes.

The setting sun illuminated our backs as we made our way down narrow slate streets, towards our small hotel with the iron balcony and tall blue doors. It had been a good day. A very good day indeed. SONY DSC

Info:

The BEST  Zanzibar Spice Tours are through Eco and Culture Tours

The tours are a half-day event and cost around $50.00 (this includes transport and a great meal you won't soon forget).

Eco & Culture Tours/ Zanzibar

P.O. Box 1390

Stonetown, Zanzibar

+255 242 233 731

ecoculturetours@gmail.com

*I am in no way, shape, or form being paid to promote Eco & Culture Tours. I am simply a dedicated enthusiast.

Do you have a favorite travel memory that invigorates your senses?

 

 

 

Exploring the Herbal Side of New York City's Botanicas

The air is musty, almost minty and decidedly green. A row of silver machetes hang above a circular wicker basket containing Nag Champa soap. Along the far wall are endless shelves of colorful candles adorned with images of patron saints and the deities of the Orishas. Herbal bath packets and glass tincture bottles fill tubs on the floor alongside statues of Ganesh, Buddha, the Virgin Mary, Yemaya and Jesus. At the checkout counter are endless herbal sachets promising wealth, health, beauty, and various other wishes. African masks with cowrie shells for eyes and ox fur for hair, some with mouth's sewn shut, others with, wait, are those human teeth?!?, leer at you from the wall behind the register.

Botanicas have become staples in New York's Afro-Latino Caribbean communities. Sanctuaries of healing,  Botanicas are a place to find medicines, novelties and comforts from the old country. Every Botanica is slightly different depending on the origin of the owner and community, but for the most part, Botanicas are small unassuming stores that stock alternative products such as herbal oils, ceremonial candles, herbs, amulets, ritual baths and plants often associated with Santeria and its many rituals.

A direct product of the African diaspora, Santeria is a fascinating belief system that combines the Yoruba religion of West Africa, Roman Catholicism and Native American healing traditions.

The herbal practices specific to  Santeria have evolved from the indigenous healing practices of West Africa and from the Native Americans. In Santeria, the two traditions are merged to create a powerful system of alternative medicine. At a Botanica you can find salves and teas, tinctures, oils and healing baths. There is a tremendous wealth of herbal knowledge in these unobtrusive storefronts.

The Afro-Latino communities in New York, mostly hailing from Cuba, Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic, Panama, Columbia and Venezuela have been relying on Botanicas for generations to assist with matters such as the common cold, arthritis, high blood pressure, hair loss, fertility issues, and issues related to love, finances, death and divorce. Botanicas are centers of hope and healing in these communities and provide a way for people to maintain a connection to the natural healing traditions from their homelands.

In a world where people are quick to pop a pill for every minor ailment, it's refreshing to see a return to tradition a return to the basics.

“You have any sugar?”

“No, no baby, I don’t got any sugar, but you can check next door. I got a good relationship with them.”

“How about honey?”

“Yeah, I got it. Just a second.”

“I’m in no hurry, take your time.”

The woman holding the white paper cup of tea, leans against some boxes beneath a row of alligator claws. Steam rises slowly and swirls before her face causing her black framed glasses to fog. She makes no attempt to wipe the lens.

“Can I help you?” The man in the white t-shirt says, eying me over quickly.

Beads of sweat have formed on the top of his bald head.

“I’m just looking.” I glance around hesitantly.

“Take your time.” He says before disappearing behind a dull red patterned curtain leading to a back room.

I walk by shelves stacked with china bowls and boxes of feathers. Drums and dried herbs hang above my head.

Having made my way to the back of the store, I try to take everything in, the amulets, talismans and masks.

The woman, whose long black hair is tied into a tight ponytail, breaks a leaf off of a nearby aloe plant allowing the clear slimy liquid inside to slowly drip into her cup.

Within seconds the man emerges with a plastic bottle of honey.

“A little more.” She directs as he squeezes the honey into her cup.

“That’s good.” She takes a small sip. “Thank you.”

The man disappears once more behind the curtain.

“I need some of that stuff for a sore throat. That powdered stuff you got. I think I’m coming down with something.” She calls towards the curtain.

The man returns with an amber jar and scoops a heaping tablespoon of what looks like ash into the woman’s tea.

“Thanks.” She smiles, swirling the wooden stir stick.

“Any questions?” The man looks at me.

“Yes,” I feel emboldened. “What remedies do you have for stress?”

 

Of course, there is a controversial side to Santeria, a world of ritual and conjuring, but as I have not been exposed to it, it is not my place to judge. I am however in absolute admiration of the herbal traditions of the faith and will make it my business to explore and support the Botanicas in my community regularly.

Below is a list of the Botanicas I visited for this post.

Botanica Universal

376 5th Ave, Brooklyn NY 11215 (718) 832-3606

C&G Botanical Inc.

1467 Nostrand Ave, Brooklyn NY 11226 (718) 282-9022

Botanica San Lazaro

3834 Broadway, NYC 10032 (212) 781-7131

Justo Botanica

1702 Lexington Ave, NYC 10029 (212) 534-9140

 

Five Inspiring Travel Memoirs Written By Women

Between my trips, adventures and sojourns, great inspiration is drawn through the exploration of  travel writing.

Travel memoir, where I have the honor to intimately experience a place, culture and space through the unique lens of another, is one of my favorite forms. Since it is not possible for me to be continuously on the road, travel memoirs allow my mind to travel freely while my legs are grounded.

When I approach the form, I look for pieces that shrink the world and provide inspiration for my dream journeys and voyages through sensory details.

Below are my recommendations for travel memoirs. All of the pieces are written by women. This was not intentional, it merely turned out this way. My suggestions are not meant to be book reviews, merely snapshots. For your convenience I've included links if you want to explore.

Five Inspiring Travel Memoirs Written By Women:

Kinky Gazpacho by: Lori L. Thorps

Tharps, determined and unyielding in her memoir, explores the boundaries (perceived and blatant) of race in America and in Spain as she details her experiences studying in Spain as a teenager. Humorous and at times heartbreaking, this coming of age piece is about exploring the limits of our comfort zones in order to see ourselves more clearly.

Stalking the Wild Dik-Dik: One Woman's Solo Misadventures Across Africa by: Marie Javins

This straightforward and honest portrait of Marie Javin's solo travels around southern and eastern Africa is brilliant. Javins is refreshingly honest as she chronicles her perceptions of a continent few are familiar with. Javin's descriptions of the landscape of Southern Africa made me yearn for Mozambique. The humorous situations she finds herself in made me laugh out loud often.

Tales of a Female Nomad by: Rita Golden Gelman

I'm infinitely inspired by this personal journey of Rita Gelman, a who sold her belongings, rented a storage unit and set off to travel the world. With an acute interest in culture, Gelman dives right in to the very core of the communities she visits. This piece is a window into the art of humility and self-reinvention. Gelman's writing is wonderfully reflective and lyric.

Agua Viva by: Clarice Lispector

Lispectors moving and strange piece reads at times like a guided meditation, at others like a meandering narrative poem,  and at others like a letter focusing on the importance of feeling, being, and experiencing life in the present moment. Stunningly descriptive and fluid, Lispector draws you into her world and experiences in a way that I've never been invited into the personal story of another. More of a journey into the self rather than a direct exploration of other places, Lispector is a lyric shaman.

The Chicken Chronicles: Sitting with the Angels Who Have Returned with My Memories: Glorious, Rufus, Gertrude Stein, Splendor, Hortensia, Agnes of God, the Gladyses, and Babe: A Memoir by: Alice Walker

I love Alice Walker. My first introduction to her non-fiction, I found myself possessed by Walker's keen insight, humor, activism and passion for cultural travel, writing and all things chicken. This piece is a love story; love of self, love of and respect for the earth and our connection to it and love, quite literally for a group of chickens. All over the place, yes, but trust me, it makes sense and you won't want to put this book down.

 

Spring break is approaching. If you find yourself in the comfort of your home, pick up a good travel memoir, find a quiet place, and allow yourself to roam.

Do you have a favorite travel memoir?

Winter Nuptials Beneath the Stars in the Catskills

There is a place in the mountains where the air is refreshingly crisp. Yesterday's snow lingers forming crunchy banks that glisten in the sun. It is a quiet place, a creative space, where one can withdraw from the outside world and engage their senses. It's a place of brooks and streams and nature trails; where the stars weave an elaborate story as they beam down from the velvety midnight sky. They call this place the Full Moon Resort.

I doubt I would have found my way here, high up in the Catskill mountains, miles past Woodstock on my own. While open to individuals in search of a relaxing weekend or week, the Full Moon Resort is best known as a place for retreats, workshops, music festivals, and weddings. I made my way up the side of the snowy mountain as a guest at a fabulous winter wedding.

 

My good friend and fellow blogger Tracy (of the IICD and Mozambican posts) chose the Full Moon Resort as the setting for one of the most beautiful weddings I've ever had the pleasure of attending. It was a full weekend affair, that began on a Friday with a bonfire and barbecue, continued on Saturday with the lovely nuptials in a beautiful converted barn, and culminated on Sunday with an afternoon brunch.

The intimate weekend was a special way to celebrate Tracy and her new hubby Mike.

Cell phones do not work at the Full Moon, there are no televisions in the country bed and breakfast style rooms. Guests were out and about, feet crunching through the snow, communing in nature, and catching quiet writing, reading and photography breaks. It was a weekend of love, friendship, and abundant creative inspiration.

 

 

With the snow-covered mountains in the close distance, the sound of babbling brooks, and the beautiful wintry scenery, the Full Moon Resort forms an ideal backdrop for winter nuptials beneath the stars.

The Full Moon Resort: 2 Valley View Rd, Big Indian, NY 12410. (845) 254-5117.

What is the most memorable thing you've gulped down on your travels? Giveaway Time!

Congrats - James, Krista, and Fred!!!! Tea is coming your way!!!

Dear Readers,

I've got a giveaway for you! This one is months overdue, as it was supposed to correlate with my Alaska posts in September, but I forgot. I put the goodies away, and as they say "out of sight, out of mind..." until now.

When I was in Alaska this Fall, I encountered a rich cranberry tea that is popular with locals. Cranberry's are abundant in Alaska during the warmer months and have been used for centuries to make aromatic teas that soothe the digestive system and cleanse the blood while providing tons of antioxidants and vitamin C. Most importantly, Alaskan Cranberry Tea is tasty and is a soothing way to begin or end your day (caffeine free).

I've got three packets to give away. All you have to do is answer the following question:

What is the most memorable thing you've gulped down on your travels?

Although it is tasty, the Alaskan Cranberry Tea isn't the most memorable thing I've ever gulped down during my travels. I think my favorite beverage was the warm mulled apple cider that I had while visiting my friend Lynne in Montreal. It was freezing cold outside and we entered the Jean-Talon market which smelled so amazing. Everywhere I went, my nostrils were met with the aroma of clove and cinnamon. Finally I asked Lynne what I was smelling and she told me it was a local cider. We popped into a shop, ordered a cup and it was unbelievably amazing. The apple cider was almost buttery, it was so rich and layered and mmmm.... I think about that cider often.

How about you?

Winners will be announced on Monday, March 11.

Stay Warm!

Sojourner

The Historic Sites and Landmarks in Brandywine, Maryland

Driving down the dusty dirt roads of Brandywine, Maryland, one gets the impression that not much happens here.

Established in 1873 as a railroad town, not much has changed since. It's a slow place, decidedly rural, sandwiched between two suburbs, one affluent, the other declining.

The Village of Brandywine, once defined by the railroad and a vast expanse of tobacco plantations, is undergoing a transformation. Once barren plantations are being developed into gated housing communities. Grandiose mansions adorn sprawling land that once housed modest farmhouses, barns, and shacks.

Brandywine is well on its way to becoming a mega-suburb. However beneath all of the new development and suburban shine, there lies a deeper story. Brandywine is home to  historic sites and landmarks that bear testament to its founding and early vision.

The site of a bloody slave rebellion in 1739, home to Francis Scott Key and John Wilkes Booth, Brandywine, Maryland has played host to a slew of significant historic moments and individuals.

If you should find yourself in Brandywine, Maryland, off of US route 5 and 301, you may find these sites fascinating:

Woodville Colored School

21500 Aquasco Road, Brandywine, MD

Built on two acres of land purchased by James Gray, a former slave, this one story, three room school served as the first school open to blacks in the area. Built by the Freedmen's Bureau in 1868, the Woodville Colored School was in operation until 1955.

Hidden behind two country homes, the school and its surrounding land is eerily vacant. I was free to explore and poke around. I was disturbed that this historic landmark was left unkempt and unguarded. A piece of history like this should most definitely be preserved and perhaps turned into a museum.

St. Thomas Methodist Church

18810 Aquasco Road, Brandywine, MD

Built in 1868, the St. Thomas Methodist church is a single story rural meeting house style church. I really had to search to find this property. It was down a winding dirt road, behind a farmhouse. There was no marker on the main road. How this structure is still standing, I have no idea.

It is dilapidated but completely beautiful with it's still intact stained glass and immaculate detailing (particularly around the windows). Why this church isn't preserved and used as a museum or presently as a church I completely don't understand. Come on Brandywine, where is your historical preservation society?

To the left of the church is an old cemetery with tiny headstones dating back to the early 1800's. It was a sacred quiet place that seemed forgotten by time. Standing on the property, you can almost imagine how it must have looked in the late 1800's, with the rolling green hills in the back and the clear blue sky above.

Chapel of the Incarnation

14070 Brandywine Road, Brandywine, MD

Built in 1916 by architect William J. Palmer, the Chapel of the Incarnation functions today as a church. It is a stunning Spanish colonial structure, slightly out of place amongst the old Victorian farm homes that stand guard over much of Brandywine Road.

 

You really can find some beautiful gems in the most unexpected of places. Brandywine, Maryland is one such unsuspecting locale.  This post is for Brandywine, a town in the midst of transition from rural to suburban, a town in need of historical preservation to ensure that her special places and quiet beauty are celebrated and appreciated.

Do you know of a small town with unsuspected history and charm?