The Hunt for Diapers in Tokyo

It is a desperate feeling. You’re down to your final three diapers and despite your efforts; you can’t find a place to purchase another pack.

 

Tokyo isn’t a city that I would deem child friendly. Babies are not a common sight. People seem to have other priorities in Tokyo, where the mantra seems to be “work really hard play harder, repeat”.

 

When I packed for our month in Japan, there was no way I’d have enough room in my suitcase to pack enough diapers for the duration of the trip. In fact, I thought nothing of packing a weeks supply thinking, I’ll just pick up a pack when we run out - after all, you can find everything in Tokyo.

 

If only it were that simple. With three diapers left, I began my quest to buy a new. I started with grocery stores. They seemed a likely place to purchase pampers. After combing through aisles I was turned away from not one, not two, but four different grocery stores. “Where can I buy diapers?” I’d patiently implore cashier after cashier, pulling a diaper from my purse to ensure my question was understood. Worriedly, store clerks would look at the diapers, at each other, then at me. Some would simply shrug, other offered meek apologies. With two diapers left, I was getting desperate.

 

I took my search to 7-11s and other convenience stores, once again, seemingly likely targets- nope. No diapers and no leads as to where to purchase them.

 

At the hotel concierge desk, with one diaper to go, I asked the woman to please point me in the direction of diapers. And where did she advise that I go?- A local department store. Department store?!? That didn’t sound right, but I wasn’t in a position to argue. Off we went to the department store, where between the glassware section and the fine china section sat a small collection of baby clothes, supplies and three packs of diapers. Relief!

 

Not knowing Ohm’s weight in kilograms caused a bit of confusion, but after the assistance of some friendly clerks, we were able to narrow in on the right pack.

 

*Ironic Side Note: Tokyo may have a miniscule baby population, but its elderly population is thriving. We found shelves stocked high with Depends in the grocery stores as well as the convenience stores.

 

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Ohm's Debut at the Blue Note Tokyo

There are some who work their whole lives to grace prestigious stages like the Blue Note; and there are those, who need little more than a cute face, a bubbly personality, and charm. My little Ohm, falls under the latter category.

We came to the Blue Note to hear the Count Basie Orchestra. Mark's a part of the orchestra, but since he was working the "Come Fly Away" tour and had a sub, he was afforded the rare opportunity to be a Basie spectator.

"They sound good." He marveled as we sat on our stools, passing an active Ohm between us.

Ohm handled himself like a pro, for the first few songs, bopping and swaying to the beat, clapping on cue. He went downhill fast though, as things with one-year-olds go, forcing me to retreat to the green-room.

It was there, in the green room, where Ohm met Keiko Lee, the featured singer for that evening and one of Japan's most noted Jazz singers. What happened next, could only be described as love at first sight. Ohm and Keiko babbled, smiled, and cooed at each other.

After her first set, when she entered the green-room, Ohm stood up and applauded causing her to blush.

"May I take him on stage with me?" She asked before returning for her second set.

"Um...sure?!?" I sputtered, not certain what I was agreeing to.

Into Keiko's arms Ohm crawled, and onto the main stage they strolled. Ohm grinned at the audience, loving his new-found attention. The audience roared.

Keiko sang her songs with Ohm in her arms. He smiled and waved at the crowd. He didn't make a peep. When their set was over, Ohm received quite an ovation.

As the patrons of the Blue Note headed out, a long line formed in front of Ohm and I. Confused at first, I didn't get what was happening, people had lined up to see Ohm.

Ohm greeted his admirers with smiles and waves. He was a true professional. I'm almost certain that I have a little performer in the making on my hands.

 

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Sojourner's Sojourns Needs Your Vote!

Dear Readers, I've got exciting news. Sojourner's Sojourns was recently nominated "Best Travel Blog" in the Black Weblog Awards.

While the nomination makes me smile, winning will make me smile, dance, and sing.

Voting begins today and runs through October 1st.

Please take a moment, to vote for Sojourner's Sojourns. It's super easy. You can click on the Black Weblog Awards button on my page, or you can go to www.blackweblogawards.com. Click "vote here," scroll down to the Travel Blog category, and voila!

Thanks so much for reading, supporting, and voting!

Happy Travels,

Sojourner

Tokyo Food Show

I had found my zone. Before me lay rows of delectable glossy French pastries, fine teas, sushi, escargot, puddings, warm breads and savory cheeses. Welcome to the Tokyo Food Show, the sign read. My lips spread into a grin. I could feel my jeans getting tighter from mere suggestion.

 

Leaving Mark and Ohm behind in a cream puff scented trail of imaginary dust, I set off  in search of lunch- if you can call a tray of flaky warm pastries lunch (I personally have no qualms with this).

 

Located next to the Shibuya metro station in Mark City, the Tokyo Food Show is exactly what the name implies an elaborate show of the best of Tokyo’s food.

 

Dozens of vendors and fine confectioners line the showroom. Some of the best restaurants and hotels in Tokyo have stalls where you can sample their coveted culinary highlights.

 

I came for the baked goods. The Japanese have mastered the art of French baking. If you love macrons, éclairs, croissants, cream puffs, then you will not be disappointed.

 

Be warned, the food is quite pricy. The conversion rate from the dollar to the yen is not pretty. Luckily there are plenty of samples available to help you make the right choices.

In the end, I settled on this guy below.

It was as if he was speaking to me, "eat me Sojourner. Eat me in all of my rich butter cream, almond goodness..."

So I did, and it was so worth the tight jeans.

 

The Shrines of Tokyo

Very much ingrained in Japanese life and culture, Shinto, the ancient original religion of Japan has millions of devotees.

 

Placing heavy value on harmony with nature, the serene philosophy of the Shinto religion resonates through the open spaces of the shrines which allow one to revel in nature while being inspired by the divine. Shrines in Tokyo are both simple and ornate, placid and stimulating.

 

One is struck by an overwhelming sense of peace, the distinct impression that you are entering a sacred space. Architectural marvels, I was struck  by the immaculate attention to detail, the feeling of age and might.

 

 

Crossing through the main arch of a shrine, you have many paths to choose before reaching the main altar. You may find a water fountain containing holy water in which to cleanse your hands and face before approaching the featured altar. Often your nose will be seduced by the ethereal aroma of spicy incense, simultaneously grounding and uplifting. There may be nooks with statues and mini altars, or perhaps you will be rewarded with wide open forested paths.

 

Whichever the case may be, each shrine is unique. Each structure holds its own recipe for peace, for re-connecting with one’s self. Be still, allow each shrine reveal itself to you, to slowly disarm you with its gifts.

 

Not sure if you’ve encountered a shrine or a temple? Here’s an easy formula. All of the shrines that you will encounter in Japan are Shinto, just as all temples are Buddhist. If you are surrounded by statues of Buddha, chances are you’ve found a temple (my temple post is coming soon).

 

The following three shrines left a great impression on me.

 

 

 

  1. Togo Shrine- Located in Harajuku, this compact shrine is nestled in an unobtrusive nook between two buildings. A quick retreat from the hustle and bustle of the busy electric streets of Harajuku, the Togo Shrine, dedicated to Admiral Tōgō Heihachirō is unexpected and lovely.

 

 

 

 

 

  1. Meiji Shrine- One of Tokyo’s most famous and elaborate shrines, I couldn’t get enough of this woodsy retreat. Located in the middle of acres of green forest, it’s hard to believe once inside that you are still in Tokyo. Visiting the Meiji Shrine is like stepping into another world. The rambling footpaths are ideal for engaging in a walking meditation. The forest smells different, feels wonderfully vibrant. In the summer you’ll be lulled by a symphony of locusts, cicadas, birds, and frogs. As you ramble over the stony path towards the shrine, sunlight cascades downwards casting iridescent cocoons of light. The Meiji Shrine, built in 1920 in honor of Emperor and Empress Meiji is my favorite Tokyo shrine (I tried to not pick favorites, but I couldn’t help it!).

 

  1. Toshogu Shrine in Ueno Park- Built in 1616, in dedication to Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Edo Shogunate, this woodsy open shrine feels very much like a playful tree house. Located in the center of busy Ueno park, the shrine is elevated slightly so that you are on level with the leaves of the trees around its periphery. This shrine radiates energy and offers great views of the park.

 

With dozens to choose from, the shrines of Tokyo, offer a unique glimpse into the culture and traditions of Japan. A visit to Tokyo isn't complete without a visit to at least one shrine.

The Tokyo Metro: One smooth ride, almost

Once you get past the somewhat unintelligible twists and turns of the many lines taking you to and from. Once you are able to discern a path through the throngs of people snaking around (and at times into) each other, and once you grasp the concept of checking the maps to see which exit to use (less you be sent off miles from your intended destination), the Tokyo metro can be quite a pleasing experience.

 

Almost everything about the metro is designed for your comfort and convenience. The trains glide gracefully into the station without the typical grinding squeaking clamor. When the doors open, a brief classical music tune can be heard. Each station has a song, this is to assist the blind and young school children who ride the metro to school find their stops.

 

Many of the stations have gates surrounding the platform, you do not have to worry about a crazy person pushing you into the tracks, or fainting before an oncoming train in the humid heat of August.

 

Before boarding the train, awaiting passengers on the platform form civilized queues. There is often a conductor, with white gloves, to help ensure all passengers make it into their cars.

Each train can be tracked. You know exactly when your chariot is scheduled to arrive. If you are in for a long wait, no worries. You can help yourself to a coffee, a beer, or a soda, from one of the many vending machines. Or perhaps you’d like to patron the waiting station, an enclosed  (in case it is winter) area with seats.

 

Once you’ve boarded your train, upholstered seats await you. The trains are clean, as are the stations; you will not see roaches or rats.

 

Are you pregnant, elderly, on crutches or riding with a small child? No worries. There is a designated seating area just for you. Usually people will move aside so that you can take a seat.

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Darn, couldn’t grab a seat and you’ve got a purse and a grocery bag, perhaps a brief case and a suit jacket? No problem. There are ledges above the seats where you may place your items, nobody will take your belongings, and you are free to relax. In fact, feel free to pull out your I-phone without worrying about it being snatched from your hands by a gang of teenagers.

 

Halfway into your commute and suddenly have to use the restroom? Well you’re in luck; every few cars are equipped with a bathroom (yes they’re clean). Transitioning from car to car is easy, most trains are open, and the doors separating the cars remain unhinged to allow for smooth passage.

 

Sound too good to be true? There are no catches here, this is more than a commuter’s fantasy, it is real. Welcome to Tokyo, where the metro is designed for your comfort- almost. The metro is, to be fair, a navigational nightmare if you don’t speak Japanese and are unable to decipher characters.

 

And warning to the night owls, the trains completely stop running at one am. Wherever you are in your commute, at one, even if you are on a train and are halfway to your destination, the service will shut down. Luckily taxis are lined up outside of the stations but they are very expensive, very, very expensive. Many a late-night club-hopper can be found sound asleep on the sidewalks near the train stations on weekend mornings.